Mexico City

More from México City

Volcano plume at sunrise from our hotel window

This is not how most people enter and initially experience México City, and we aren’t probably going to have our usual lives back for another couple of weeks. (Our apartment is not ready for us, so we are staying in a hotel, and to further distort the experience, it is a damn nice hotel.) We have been essentially living out of our suitcases, with our cat, Sophie, for more than three months, since the last week of May, when we left Buenos Aires. So, while staying in such a hotel is a rare treat, we are becoming desperate to have our lives back.

Sunday, we walked around part of the Polanco neighborhood, where our apartment is located, and were ecstatic to find that the short, one-way, narrow street in front of our building is quiet and barely used. After 3 1/2 years of living just above the horrendous, cacophonous, roar of mad horns, unmufflered buses, and delivery trucks on Cerviño Street in Buenos Aires, our street here feels like a country lane in the hinterlands, even though it is only a few blocks from the major boulevard of México City — Paseo de la Reforma.

Don’t eat fish from the river Poo

Streets in the neighborhood behind our hotel are named for world rivers. The streets are filled with restaurants, cafés, and bars, and we wander there frequently. This one street sign is our favorite. It is supposed to be named for Italy’s River Po … but River Poo does have a certain flavor.

We haven’t been here long enough to form any realistic impressions, this is only our fourth day. Most of what one is led to expect seems to be the case: traffic is so ridiculous that it’s almost a comic show, everything one eats is extraordinarily delicious (except sushi, at least in the one place we’ve tried), there is an “edgy” atmosphere in the streets, we have not met an unfriendly person yet, and we have already had one attempt by a business to rip us off like the stupid gringoes we are (Telcel, the national cell phone company), it rains pretty hard for a short while most days (since it is the rainy season), only occasionally is the surrounding ring of volcanic mountains visible through the smog, and the parks are fantastic.

The waiters in our hotel, one in particular, enjoy asking us how we like the city and what we like best. There is an evident pride in this often-asked question. I have endeared myself to one waiter, who now seeks me out when I enter the restaurant, because I answered this way: México City is the best in four ways — tequila, cerveza, comida (cuisine), and mujeres (women). I have made a friend.

Speaking of tequila. OMG, as the kiddies text. This is not your mother’s Jose Cuervo. Even Holly has taken a liking to a shot of tequila in a brandy glass to sip after dinner. Straight tequila is served with an interesting chaser here — sangrita maria, a sort of “little bloody mary,” but made with mescal and chiles.

Last evening, on the hotel terrace bar, I had a Don Julio 70 añejo, their seventieth anniversary bottling, which is aged almost 2 years in white oak casks, then filtered to clarity and to enhance the essential agave flavor.

I will end with a photo of our table on the terrace.

tequila, Méxican wine, and a shot of sangrita maria, on terrace


Categories: Mexico City, Places and Travel

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9 replies »

  1. Well, I have an iPhone and want data service for email, messages, and Internet. I got an “Amigo Plan,” which is pre-pay, because I want to look around a bit more before getting a long-term contract (because I also need roaming). After the rip-off attempt with Telcel, I an probably going to do with AT&T. I had Movistar (a Spanish company) in Argentina, and it was all right, but because of roaming in Norte Americana, I will probably use AT&T.

    Start planning your trip. I hope we will be settled before the end of September.

      • YES! Condesa is one of my favorite neighborhoods. Coyoacan as well! It was such a long trip from my hotel though! I was staying in El Centro…few blocks from Belles Artes.

      • YES! Condesa is one of my favorite neighborhoods. Coyoacan as well! It was such a long trip from my hotel though! I was staying in El Centro…few blocks from Belles Artes. I just started following your blog…look forward to more of your posts!

        • And I look forward to your participation here. Over the years, the frequency of postings here have diminished noticeably, but I do like to put something here from time to time. If you get bored, you can read back in the archives — most of the best stuff here is kind of old.